There is another woman staying at the Oriental Guesthouse, Cateriona, who is from Edinburgh, but who works largely in Nepal. She is currently setting up the webpage for a woman's trekking company, and has helped to train employees. She has traveled extensively throughout Asia, and has a good sense of humor and perspective on "getting things done" in India. She is seeking relief in Ladakh from the oppressive heat in Gujarat. Unfortunately, it is massively hot here as well. It's been about 38 or 39C. I'm ok if I stay in one system (metric, preferably) but get confused when I try to convert from F to C. Those of you who are math stars, go for it. I'll just say that it is HOT and that I won't be needing my tights or polartec vest this trip. There is hardly any humidity in this mountain desert, which made for a nice change, even though it was hot.
Tamara and Cateriona went to a party at SECMOL to which I was invited third hand. I declined and went shopping instead. I went back to Himalayan Handicrafts to see Iqfal (who is still there and remembered me*) and his little brother, who is now 18. Iqfal is all of 27, but a real businessman. There was a funny Swiss couple already there when I entered. Marion is a school librarian (the woods are thick with them) and her husband Alec was enjoying bargaining for a lovely turquoise encrusted wall plaque and some jewelry. I sorted through some shawls, and kept an ear to the proceedings. I didn't want to choose sides, but it was hard not to smile at all of them. Iqfal finally sent his brother out for tea. I refused twice (as is polite) and then they offered me a coke. I accepted the offer of tea, since I wasn't going to get any shopping done until the fierce bargainer was finished. Their purchases were significantly more than I could afford, and the business was good for Iqfal- plus the show was entertaining. While they were "thinking things over" Iqfal showed me a cashmere shawl costing 8,000 rupees. It felt like butter, and could easily have passed through a small ring, but it was way out of my range, costing as much as my room for the whole month! It was nice to see and feel it, though.
When Marion and Alec left and it came to my turn to buy, we were all too worn out to bargain much. Iqfal asked what price Dechen told me, and I replied, "250?" We had a good laugh at the ridiculously low offer, and agreed that she probably had said 450, so we settled on that price. Dechen is one of Nawang and Chondol's daughters. She is married and works at Jet Airways. She brought me to Iqfal last trip, and told him to give me the Ladakhi price and not overcharge. I trust her, and in turn trust Iqfal. They packed my purchase up with lots of tape, and I set out to the next stop on my list.
I had worse luck at the Kashmiri tinsmith, who tried to give me the wrong change. I bought some cups and bowls of medium quality for whomever will come on this project in the future. I had enough to carry, so headed back to the guesthouse, where I had some soup and was in bed by 9pm.
* I quit being flattered that any Ladakhis remember me when I realized that I probably am one of the odder looking people they've seen. I'm quite tall- which means taller than may Ladakhi men, my hair is white, my eyes are green, and my fair skin gets red in sun or heat. A preschooler in the US once asked me if I was a muppet- but I think that's taking it a little far. But I can see how I would stand out in Ladakh.
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